| ISSUE #32 |
New Ranch Ropes
|
Perfectly Bitless Bridle
|
Haltering
|
Ground Manners
|
Steve Lantvit Clinics
|
|
Buckaroo Deal
Reg. Price $199.50
Hand crafted from the finest Hermann Oak single ply heavy harness
leather, this Old Martingale style shaped breast collar features an over
the shoulder fit for a better pulling position.
Be apart of the excitement and learn fascinating Old West History, see new products, meet some amazing horse trainers!
Helpful Links
| |
|
Buckaroo Ranch Rope
with Red Tracer
|
1/29/12
Buckaroo John
Buckaroo Leather is proud to offer the ranch and range proven aged 3/8" Soft Red
Tracer nylon lariat ropes.
These have become the go to rope in the great
basin and ranches across the west.
We offer the standard tied in
loop honda with rawhide burner or the metal buckaroo honda.
3/8" Soft
Lay (lay is the degree of softness/stifness feel) is our most popular.
Please call 530-545-0139 for any other sizes or
lay.
|
|
|
Michaella Walkers
Perfectly Bitless Bridle |
1/29/12
Buckaroo John
Buckaroo Leather is proud to be the exclusive manufacturer of
Michaella Walkers signature designs of her Perfectly Bitless Bridle.
Made in our traditional American made qualities with Hermann Oak
Harness Leather.
Michaella's Signature Brand is bringing you the
PERFECTLY BITLESS BRIDLE. It's a three piece bridal with
interchangeable nose band and curb that can be attached to any
headstall. The three pieces can be purchased separately or as a full
bridle. The Perfectly Bitless Bridle is now available in soft, durable
black leather weaved with natural rawhide and accented with black. Or in
brown leather weaved with natural rawhide and accented with white
chocolate.
There are many bitless bridles out there but this is the most
effective. It is easy for the horse to understand. It never clamps down
around the nose, instead it works the way a horse understands best,
with direct pressure. This perfectly bitless bridle allows the horse to
find relief in moving away from the pressure and into the open door.
It doesn't work on leverage it works like a snaffle when used for
breaking colts and can be ridden in for years by moving the reins to the
bottom rings to create a beautiful headset and feel for Reining or
Dressage Competitors. It's feel is similar to a bosel, but less severe
when in less refined hands..
I have always said that a bit is only as good as the hands it is in,
but the Perfectly Bitless Bridle is much more forgiving then any metal
bit put in a horse's mouth. In order to encourage and educate the hand
using the Perfectly Bitless Bridle, we are offering a one month
membership to our Inner Circle Members Coral. With this one month free
trial you will have the opportunity to see Michaella breaking colts,
training young horses helping gaited horses gait better from the rear
forward rather then from the mouth back and resolve issues in problem
horses, all in the Perfectly Bitless Bridle. This is an added bonus you
will receive with your purchase, so that you too, can come to
understand the effectiveness of this beautiful and durable communication
aid, the Perfectly Bitless Bridle.
To purchase your Perfectly Bitless Bridle or to learn more information please visit the Buckaroo Leather site here.....
|
|
Haltering
by Kathleen Lindley
|
1/29/12
Kathleen Lindley
Horsemanship seems to be a bunch of concentric, interlocking and overlapping circles and spheres. Just when we think we've got something mastered, we get a hint that there's yet another layer of mastery out there to be had within that specific skill. At least that's how it seems to work for me.
This past year I've been working a lot on haltering and bridling my horses. These were tasks that I'd begun doing kind of mechanically, without much feel or mindfulness because I did them so often and they were such mundane tasks. To be honest, a lot of times I wasn't mindful about my haltering or bridling because my mind was already working on the "fun" stuff: RIDING!!!! So last year I vowed to spend some more time studying and practicing haltering and bridling.
Winter time is a good time to start a project like this. We might have restricted time and daylight or poor footing. But we will be haltering our horse regardless.
Haltering is important, because if we're mindful, we can get a lot of information about a horse from how he halters. Mostly horses will bridle how they halter, so if we can work on haltering, we're also working on our bridling. And we've got an opportunity to take a leadership role with our horse right away by asking that they halter a certain way, with a certain feel.
Keep in mind that what follows is just one of an infinite number of ways to halter a horse. It's just a way I've been using that seems to help with a bunch of things that have become important to me with my horses. We can do this with any kind of halter, so that's not of critical importance for what we're talking about here.
First thing I'll do is ALWAYS have my halter and lead rope organized when I approach my horse. It's a bit rude to walk up to a horse and be all in a mess with one's halter and rope. Kind of like showing up for a meeting with your fly undone and shirt buttons unbuttoned. So we need to organize our halter and rope so we're able to move smoothly and straight-forwardly when we get to our horse.
Once I've caught my horse up, I'll kind of hug my horse around the neck and pass the crown piece of the halter over his neck from my left hand to my right. So I'll end up with the long piece of the crown in my right hand and the short end (the knot or the buckle) in my left hand, forming a complete loop around my horse's neck. This will allow me to use the crown piece of the halter to direct my horse's head down and toward me. I'd like him to reach for the halter eventually, and this is the start. I'd like him to halter at a comfortable height, say between my knees and my shoulders so I'm not on my tippy-toes as I halter him, with him leaning back away from the halter. I'd like him balanced on all four feet and soft through his body and his mind. When I use the halter to direct him here, I'm thinking already of the halter (or my hands on him) being connected not just to his head, but to his mind, his body and his feet. This is a spot where we can practice feeling the WHOLE horse through that physical connection we just made with him and we can feel the quality of his yield (or lack thereof). There's a difference between a horse who is reaching for me or the halter, and a horse who is pushy. I'd like him to reach without pushing. I don't want him to bump or bash me rudely with his head either, or drag me off.
To read the rest of Kathleen's article...click here
Also Visit Kathleen's Website and sign up for her monthly newsletter.......Click Here
|
|
|
Ground Manners
by Raye Lochert
|
1/29/12
Buckaroo John
Good ground manners makes it enjoyable to spend time with your horse. If
you take a simple approach, spend some time and be consistent, your
horse will learn to stand still. The process is
ground manners. So many horses go through
training with this area being neglected. Horses are rushed through
groundwork training so that they can be ridden sooner. Although the
horse may be
an excellent riding horse the ground manners are
atrocious. This can all be fixed very easily.
First
, you need to remember that during the training
process you must be very consistent in what you do and how you do it.
This means that any time your horse pulls or pushes, you must respond
in the same manner each time. You can not get
angry or punish the horse. You must realize that this behavior is due to
a lack of training. In other words, your horse doesn't know any better.
Next, you must understand the theory of pressure
and release. You will apply a cue, which is in some way pressure. When
your horse gives you the desired result you must release or stop the
cue. It is important that when teaching your
horse a cue that you only release on the desired movement. For example,
if you are asking the horse to go forward but instead the horse backs up
and you release your cue you just taught the
horse to back up. Do not worry if this happens, you did not just ruin
your horse. Start over and try again. Horses are very forgiving.
It will also help to understand the horse's learning curve. When teaching a horse something new they
always seem to start out getting better and then get worse. This is
where most people
will stop and try something else. I used to.
What I have learned is that the horse will always get worse before they
get better. They are just trying to figure out what it is that we are
asking them to
do. If you just stay consistent with what you
are doing and do not get upset, you will find that the horse will start
to improve rapidly.
With this in mind, the lesson you are going to
work on in the arena is simply teaching the horse to go forward,
backward, left, right and move the hips over while you are on the
ground. The goal is
to be able to have your horse move in all these
directions softly while giving to the bit. It is like dancing with your
horse. The idea is that if your horse wants to move when you do not want
them
to then they will learn to move on your terms.
You can not force your horse to stand still but you can make them move
in the direction and the way you want them to. What happens is that the
horse will realize you are in control and will
make the decision to stand still on its own. Sound good? Let's get
started.
To read the rest of this informative article click here.....
For more information about Raye Lochert Horsemanship contact:
|
|
Steve Lantvit Horsemanship
2012 Clinics
|
1/29/12
Steve Lantvit
Steve Lantvit Horsemanship clinics are held at Highgrove Farm throughout the year aimed at advancing your horsemanship skills, confidence, and techniques. Reinvent the relationship between you and your horse and experience new challenges!
All clinics are tailored for the group and are unique for each session, thus, return participants are continually challenged.
Steve Lantvit Clinics held throughout the year with topics ranging from Beginning to Advanced Horsemanship, Obstacle Negotiation, Colt Starting, Ranch Cow Work
-Training; Colt Starting, Problem-solving, or Fine-tuning a seasoned horse
(all breeds and disciplines are welcome)
-Riding Instruction with a Customized Program to fit you and your horse's needs
(trailering your horse in for sessions is welcome)
Personalized attention and top quality care and education make Highgrove Farm the Ultimate Training Facility.
Give us a call if you are interested in having Steve conduct a Clinic, Lecture, or Demonstration at your Facility or Event, or at Highgrove Farm.
March 23-25
Steve Lantvit Horsemanship
"Cow Working #I" Clinic
Highgrove Farm, LaPorte, Indiana
Horsemanship, Flag Work, Tracking & Rating Cattle, Ranch Cutting, and Ranch Sorting
This clinic accommodates both Beginner and Experienced Riders/Horses.
April 20-22
Steve Lantvit Horsemanship
"Cow Working #2" Clinic
Highgrove Farm, LaPorte, Indiana
Horsemanship, Flag Work, Cutting, Ranch Cutting, Ranch Roping (break-away & stopping)
This clinic accommodates both Beginner and Experienced Riders/Horses. Ranch ropes are available at the clinic for purchase.
April 27-29
Steve Lantvit Horsemanship
"Ranch Horse" Clinic
Highgrove Farm, LaPorte, Indiana
Horsemanship, Trail Obstacles, Cattle Work, Ranch Roping, Hobbling
From Beginner to Advanced - Horsemanship clinic with emphasis on ranch work to develop a well-rounded and brave horse.
To sign up for clinics and view more clinic dates...click here!
Follow Steve on Facebook, visit his website and blog and leave your comments!
|
|
