Buckaroo Leather Newsletter Issue#19 Vol. 1

Published: Sun, 12/26/10


        
Buckaroo Leather Newsletter-the Newsletter to Demand!!!!    
 
 
 

Issue #19
Buckaroo Wants to Hear from You...
What is Hot at Buckaroo
Jerry Tindell
Amy Allen-shoes to barefoot part 2
Farah DeJohnette-feeding horses
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Larry Trocha-Bucking

 
A Christmas on the 101 Ranch-

Out in the ranches in the West one may experience quite a different Christmas from the conventional one.

Out, for instance, in the biggest ranch and diversified farm in the country, known to fame as the "101 Ranch," out at Bliss, Oklahoma, run by the three Miller brothers. There are eighty-five thousand acres of profitable land where they raise pretty much everything, including particular Cain--at least, at Christmas. The land is in what used to be the Cherokee Strip, and when the Government opened up the territory to the people, Joe Miller raced off, at the crack of the pistol, on his father's

Kentucky thoroughbred, riding forty miles to the desired claim. The horse that had run the race so nobly used his last breath to finish, and fell dead at the close of day on a spot that his rider has marked with a monument to his memory. The ranch has had its vicissitudes since that day, but its development by these three young men, from a range of un-tracked prairie to a profitable and perfectly-conducted establishment is truly wonderful.

to read more visit

 


 
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Check out What Is Hot at Buckaroo Leather


 
Hand crafted from the finest Hermann Oak Golden Bridle leather, this Old Martingale style Choker shaped breast collar features an over the shoulder fit for a better pulling position. It Also features an adjustable Over neck strap and connector billets.
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
Be apart of the excitement and learn fascinating Old West History, see new products, meet some amazing horse trainers!
 

 

 
 
 



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Helpful Links
 
 Buckaroo Leather Wants to Hear from You.......

         

 
12/26/10
Buckaroo John
 
In this past year I have enjoyed hearing from all the Buckaroo "Pardners" and horse friends on Facebook.  The topic that is always coming up is horse training and types of HorseTack used.
 
On my facebook fan page I have started an area of discussion to talk about these important questions. Below is the first of many discussions I hope to build via facebook. Take a moment to add to this discussion or start another topic. Buckaroo Leather wants to hear from you....
 
Ride American!!!!
 
 
Thanks for asking so many tack questions, so we are starting with our most asked about topic! Looking through tack catalogs and watching "clinics" about training and devices one would assume that a person needs a ROOM built on the barn , just for Training tack and trick devices.
 
Is all this necessary or are many Horse persons looking for the easy way out?
Please give us your thoughts.
..
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Testimonial from a happy customer and Horse........
 
Exceeded my expectations! Thank you Buckaroo Leather  for Dream's (pictured above) custom made bridle and reins. Honestly as beautiful as it is, it's the "feel" of the reins and the quality of the workmanship that makes this the best bridle reins combination I have ever owned. Even Dream couldn't stop staring at himself when I took him into the Dressage Arena with the big mirrors;) Thank you John!
 
 
 
 

   

 
From all of us at Buckaroo Leather have a Happy and
Safe New Year!!!!
 
 
 
 


 

 
Jerry Tindell

 
 
 
 
12/26/10
Jerry Tindell
 

 
HORSE SENSE FOR THE HUMAN
 
Horses and Mules Live by a Code
 
We know there is a pecking order, a discipline process, motivators and purpose and these are the guidelines by which they function.  It is all set into play by the lead animals.  As they go through the ranks and rise to that position they start to dictate all the rules.  That's what builds the pecking order, discipline, motivators and purpose and unifies the herd.  What's so special about this process is that it is not negotiable.  As the strength of the lead animal deteriorates or he otherwise becomes unable to perform, that position is filled by a brand new start, but the process never changes - there are no new rules.  That's what makes it such an honest system. 
 
Now let's talk about the fear and flight within the animal.  Animals become so aware, which is why they have the flight instinct - they leave things they don't want to confront, things they are concerned about.  This does not pertain to horse-to-horse relationships - the former herd rules still apply there.  Fear and flight come into play when dealing with a stimulus outside their 'family' or herd.  The flight process, which is so special to these animals, allows safety and removes their fear, because they can get away from the fearful thing.  It is important to understand that this process does not build fright in the animal.
 
The Human in the Equation
 
Humans must learn how to read the horse and mule.  We must possess the qualities to be a leader and we most definitely need to have some form of direction.  That direction must have purpose and it must remain the same all the time.  Likewise we must find motivators.  Motivators for the horse and mule are very simple.  The beauty about what the human can offer, if he follows the guidelines of the animal's world, is to protect the code of the pecking order, the discipline process and build motivators.  That means we must be fair but firm with the direction and purpose; when we release (reward) an expected result, it becomes the motivation for the animal to repeat the lesson.  Lessons must make sense to the horse or mule!  When a horse moves another horse around using discipline and motivators, he releases the pressure and stops as soon as the other horse yields.  On the other hand, when we humans give direction, are we clear about what we want?  Have we given it enough thought to communicate it to the horse?  Think about what you want to do and then simply ask them to do it.  Remember you are dealing with an animal that lives, breathes and makes decisions.  Every time we establish a connection with our stock (even as subtle as eye contact or body language) we are giving them direction, whether good, bad or indifferent.  If we give direction at all, we don't always release it on time, if ever, therefore there is no motivation on the animal's part to get better, in fact it builds negative motivation because it doesn't make any sense to him!
 
I believe that the human has a big job and responsibility to not change the rules, but rather follow what has been built for us by our animals.  A few things the human needs to master:
 
1)    How to read and understand the horse or mule so we can produce direction
2)    Correct ways to give direction
3)    How to motivate and give purpose
4)    Learn timing and proper release (reward)
5)    Know what correct behavior is so it all makes sense when we do release them
 
I am so fortunate to have the opportunity to handle animals at clinics and for training.  Unfortunately I see so many horses and mules that are simply fed up with the human (if the shoe fits, wear it).  They exhibit behavior that tells me they are tired of being jerked on, pulled on and kicked with no purpose or release.  They are resentful and mistrusting.  We pick them to death--the human is greedy, not satisfied and upset because they're not getting the result they expect when they often don't even know what they want from the animal in the first place.  Don't put a human spin on things and then get mad because it's not working.  The horse or mule only gets mad when we ask him to do something, then don't recognize when they've done it, and we ask them to do it again and again with no release or reward for the try...only picking and nagging.  We must get out of ourselves and get into our horse.  I am not suggesting that the human become complacent or passive and allow the stock to do the wrong thing, but that we use the blueprint the horse or mule came with and be responsible for protecting it.
 
I really believe that we must teach them to be well mannered, keep them right, and that will make them happy.  Let's follow the rules that work within the herd - not mix it up and produce only frustration for horse and human.  Teach them to be soft, supple and safe.  Allow them to be what they are and work within parameters they can understand.  Remember:  "You'll never have a thoroughbred if you keep treating him like a nag"!


Jerry Tindel
jerrytindell@verizon.net
 

You can become a fan of Jerry on his facebook page and I encourage you all to visit his website at www.jerrytindell.com 
 

 
 

 



 



  
Amy Allen
Transitioning from shoes to barefoot-the second trim

 
 
12/26/10
Amy Allen
Horsemanship and Barefoot Trimming
 

    
                                        
                              Left front solar view before trim                                  left front side view before trim
 
 
Its been 6 weeks since I pulled the shoes off this horse and trimmed her hooves.
                       
                           
     right hind solar view before trim                    right hind side view before trim
             
                                  
In the solar view of her left front (after trim), you can see her toe is starting to shorten and hoof widen. This horse is also building a toe callus. Currently the area where the toe callus is building is very smooth and pretty wide, from the apex of the frog all the way to the toe, however as her hoof starts to change its shape from long and narrow, to shorter and  wider, the toe callus will be located closer to the hoof wall at the toe and she will start to gain some concavity. The concavity will allow the coffin bone to be suspended higher up in the hoof, which will lead to less sensitivity to rocks and other uneven surfaces.  
                
                            
                                      left front solar view after trim                         left front side view after trim   
 
Also, as she continues in her transition her sole will gain thickness, which will also add protection and less sensitive hooves.

What are some key elements to transition and healthy bare hooves? The trim, diet, exercise to promote circulation which promotes healing, hoof protection and time. 

Can I ride my horse during barefoot transition? Absolutely, but be aware of stride and movement. If your horse is showing signs of pain, put on some boots and most likely your horse will move right out, this will increase circulation and healing.

The owner of this horse reports she has some sensitivity to rocks, which would be expected, but under saddle in the arena there is noticed improvement in her movement and she is now doing roll backs comfortably.

                                                             After 2nd Trim
 
To read more of Amy's Blog click here.....
 
Amy Allen - Horsemanship and Barefoot Trimming
728 W. Hurley Waldrip Rd. Shelton, WA 98584
360.480.5327
www.allenacres.com
 


      
 

      

Farah DeJohnette

Feeding Horses Optimally and Supplementation


 
12/26/10
Farah DeJohnette
 
 
 
 
 




I would like to offer some ideas about nutrition and supplementation as people seem to have a hard time navigating this subject with their horses. As someone who feeds myself well, it makes common sense to me to use similar guidelines in food choices for my horses. I eat as much unprocessed whole food as I can and that's how I feed my horses and dogs.

What is whole unprocessed food? It is food that has literally been unprocessed or minimally processed. An Apple or Carrot raw is an unprocessed food. So is a steam crimped, rolled or whole oat. A hay pellet or Alfalfa pellet has been processed into meal and pressed into pellets so there is some processing but you are getting a relatively pure product in Alfalfa pellets. With Hay pellets you need to be label savvy to make sure your not getting a lot of uneccesary ingredients especially if your feeding them to Cushings or Insulin Resistent horses as they can have high molasses content. Chopped Dengie and other brands of bagged hay often have molasses added as well and you need to be aware of that if your horse needs to avoid it. Molasses in itself is not the worst thing but it is not a necessary ingredient and is over used as sugar is in human food.

Diets should be clean and simple not too fancy. If supplementation is needed for balancing vitamin and minerals, a free choice set up is nice so horses can pick what they want and in what amounts as they would in nature. For specific supplementation issues, such as Joints, Real mineral deficiencies, Probiotics, and specified health issues (allergies, respiratory, immune weakness, hoof) you want to pick high quality hand crafted mixes that cater to your horses needs. Most big name supplements have a lot of leeway in how much they put of actual therapeutic amounts for their dosing. I will repeat be a SAVVY label reader. Do the math. How much per scoop not per bucket of the so called active ingredient is in the supplement. Also, what kind of other fillers and artificial flavors are in there. Make sure the dosing is to the weight of your horse not just a scoop AM and PM. You may have a Mini or a Draft and the amounts will vary a huge amount. I find that you get what you pay for a lot in supplements so you may say "wow that supplement is expensive!" And buy the cheaper one. I can almost guarantee the cheaper one is of lower active ingredients and quality. Again check labels against price. It goes up as active ingredient amounts go up which is what makes them effective. You could be wasting you money on the cheaper one.

To close I am going to give you some recommendations on some resources and feeds that are in my program. Also remember to consult with your vets before making changes in feeds and make any changes very gradually.

Typically I feed:

Free choice high quality hay is the main source in my horses diets and or grazing
Whole oats, crimped or rolled oats
Alfalfa Pellets (if my hay has no alfalfa mixed in it)
Hay Pellets
Ground Flax seed
Kelp or Seaweed powder or pellets
Free choice Minerals
Whole Apples, Carrots
Treats made from good ingredients
 


Visit Farah DeJohnette's website, blog, and video horse training. You can also follow her on facebook.
 
 
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Larry Trocha- Horse Trainer

_____________________________________________________________________________________________
 
 
12/26/10
Larry Trocha
 
 
 
Larry Trocha is an expert horse trainer with years of experience. Buckaroo Leather is honored to have Larry contribute to our newsletter with his knowledge of horse training. He has been in business since 1980 and has rained winning horses in all 3 events, including association champions, circuit champions and limited age-event champions. Larry provides Expert training for every level of horse, from green colts to finished horses.
 
Below is a portion of his Training Newsletter with information on bucking. To read more of Larry's Training Newsletter or to Subscribe please click here......
 
 
Okay, lets get started with the training questions. Here is an excellent question about colts that buck:
 
Hi Larry,

Thanks for your helpful tips. I really appreciated your solution to the "spooking" problem. I gave it a try and it really worked. I didn't have to walk home on foot.


I have a question related to training colts. I have no problem getting my youngsters moving from walk to trot and back to walk, but some of them don't want to canter - either bucking or crow-hopping in response.
 
How do you control this? The bucking can come from the excitement of speed or from resentment of being asked to move faster.
 
I don't overwork my youngsters, seldom riding more than 20-30 minutes and stopping on a good note when they perform some request well, even if it isn't the request I wanted to practice.
Any tips?

Thanks.

Diane McCluskey
 
My comments:
Hi Diane,
 
Your question is one of the best I've ever received. It is a problem that many people experience and don't know what to do about it. I hope I can shed some light here in this newsletter.
Anyway, I'll try to offer a solution that has worked well for me.
 
I really don't have a standard procedure that I use when its time to lope a green colt. I kind of pick and choose the time when I feel I can do it without causing a wreck. If I can get the colt loped a few times without a mishap, I know I'm over the worst part.
 
Some colts I'll lope the very first ride. Others, maybe the tenth ride. I've had some real athletic (and broncy) colts that I didn't ask to lope until I'd ridden them for a month. To try to lope them sooner, would have definitely gotten me bucked off.
 
However, there are times when you really need to get on with the program and get the colt loped "now".
 
Here is what I usually do when I need to lope a colt that I "know" will buck with me:
 
Before I ever ride a colt, I've tied his head around and taught him to give laterally to the bit. I've also "doubled" him (pulled him) from the ground so he knows what that is too. As long as I can get the colt's head when I need it, I feel I can control him.
 
So, let's say I'm on a colt and the colt is humpy and threatening to bog his head and buck. The first thing I'll do is reach down one rein and pull the colt's head around to get control. Then, I'll change sides and pull his head around on the other side. I want to remind him that I can "take his head away" whenever I want.NOTE: If the colt struggles or resists giving his head, it may be necessary to use quick PULLS AND RELEASES instead of a steady pull.
 
Next, I'll start bumping his sides with the calf of my leg. The bumping will be light at first but I'll soon increase it to a pretty strong "thump". I thump his sides with one leg at a time and I'll have the colt's head pulled around while I thump. I do this "thumping" to "entice" the colt to buck.
 
If he is going to buck, I want him to try it now "when I'm ready for it". Most colts will oblige but as long as I have their head pulled around, they really can't do it very well. I'll do this "pulling his head around and thumping his sides" until the colt has loosened up and there is no longer any hump in his back.
 
On most colts, this is all that is needed to prepare them to lope with no bucking.With colts that are more determined to buck, I'll go a step further and "spank" them on the butt with the ends of the reins. (Of course, I have their head pulled around when I spank them so I can maintain control).
 
Spanking their butt makes them scurry around in a circle, gets them moving and loosened up. Usually, a swat or two will be enough to get the hump out of their back.
 
I do have an alternative method that I use on exceptionally big or broncy colts.
 
I'll prepare these colts on the "ground" with a specially designed hackamore (bosal). This hackamore is made of metal and is comfortable to the horse until I decide to make it very "uncomfortable".
I'll tell you, a couple of firm "bumps" from this hackamore will have "any" colt listening and wanting to be good.
 
I'll lunge the colt and teach him to stop from the word "whoa". Any time I say "whoa" and he doesn't respond, I'll bump him with the metal hackamore. This hackamore has such an affect that most colts wouldn't even think of arguing with it.
 
Once the colt fully understands the ground work, I'll "ride" him with this metal hackamore. If there is even the slightest hint of the colt misbehaving, a small bump from the hackamore will instantly change his mind. I'll probably jinx myself by saying this but I've never had a colt buck or even try to buck using this method.

An even safer alternative would be to lunge the colt in the metal hackamore with a rider on his back. Have the rider ask for the lope and if the colt acts up, bump him to make him quit.

Hope this helps. Be careful, use good judgment and don't take unnecessary risks.
 
By the way, there are two videos that I recommend you watch. One is "Colt Starting Magic" and the other is my "Inner Circle video #1".
 
Colt Starting Magic will give you a thorough understanding of how to start colts safely with or without the use of a breaking pen. No snubbing horse is needed either. You'll see exactly how to start colts with nothing left out.
 
Inner Circle video #1 does a great job of showing you how to establish control on a green colt. I demonstrate three consecutive rides on a snorty, goosey, ready-to-buck, 2 year old gelding.
You'll see how I teach the colt to slow down and stop, how to lope with control in a big arena and most importantly, how to keep him from bucking me off. This is probably one of the best videos I've done. It reveals the solutions to many problems.
 
Take Care,
        
Larry Trocha Training Stable
24846 N Tully Rd
Acampo, Ca 95220
Cell# 707-480-0507
HorseTrainingVideos.com

 
      
 
 


 
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